Row row row, yer boat

 Friday 10 November

Dear Jetlag, 5am is too early to start, let’s wait until at least 7, please.
 
Went down to a breakfast of champions. 3 kinds of fruit. Four pieces of Wonderbread, 2 crepes an egg over almost hard, honey and coffee. I didn’t know In was expected to row the boats I came to see, or else why would I need even half that for breakfast?

Then the walk into Tam Coc proper. I had walked it in the dark twice and I really prefer it in the day time. There is something about a tree covered street at night that changes to primordial once the light of day wanes.

There must be twenty choices of places to eat on just one side of the road, between my hotel and the center of town. I picked one at random and ordered a coffee . I mentioned 3rd largest producer of coffee … well I guess a good analogy is just because you are a rancher, it doesn’t mean you are a chef. The regular way coffee is prepared here is, a tablespoon of grounds is placed in a small aluminum cup with holes in the bottom. This is placed over a small glass and hot water is poured over in. The same principle as Mr. Coffee or Keureg and they make passable coffee . This coffee was actually pretty good, real strong hints of chocolate flavor in the brew.

Then off to ride a boat. There a zillion little aluminum skiffs on the waterside in the center of town. Each

designed for 2 to as many as 4 and a rower. The price is fixed at about $10 per person, but if you want to solo you need to buy two tickets.

I was soon clad in armor of a lifejacket safely against the posibility of sinking, whether I could swim or not. The woman rower sat on a chair at the rear (aft) of the boat and started out pushing the oars forward the get us moving. Once we got a small wake going, she leaned back and replaced her hands on the oars with her feet. Somehow she was able to bring the oars back after the power stroke using her insoles. I watched all the other boats that were using this technique and still am clueless as to how they do it, but it is universally the way they do it. It’s not only efficient but leaves the rower’s hands free to fish, eat or scratch.

The water was dead flat and we slowly went along through Lilly pads and under arched bridges. In a few minutes the canyon walls started to close and steepen. This place is sometimes in the tourist brochures as fresh water Ha Long Bay. I can see why. The limestone karst rises sharply with fiords of water in between. Both this location and Ha Long bay were used as backdrops for a King Kong movie and it sure does look remote and Jurassic to me.

The first cave was longer than either of the caves visited in Ha Long bay. It was a real cave, so much that if it hadn’t been lighted would have been totally dark most of the time. The ceiling was low and the rower came as close as she could to beaning the passengers. I think it is a game they play with themselves to see if they can make the tourist’s duck. Kind like that grade school taunt ‘ha, ha. Made you flinch’. I refused to give her the satisfaction, but had to fight the urge a couple times.

Then back into sunshine and more flat water, Lilies and karst and then another cave and a turn around for the same trip but in reverse. It sun was in my face and high in the sky so I put my iPhone camera away. Have you ever rented a horse, and you clop clop slowly along until you turn around, and suddenly the horse is alive prancing and high strutting? Lady rowers are the same way, except close to the stable the horse doesn’t ask for a tip. For a non tipping country they sure aren’t shy to ask when you can perform a

service for them.

By now it was closing in on mid-day so I thought I’d stop for a nosh. I went back to the same cafe and ordered a cucumber and tomato salad . It was very tasty and Soy, sugar and oil - with just a squeeze of lemon - dressing. I think I’m going to add it to my summertime menu.

Back at the hotel we swapped rooms for the one I had reserved on hotels.com. Exactly the same, without the dog or and the truck noise with a supposedly better view, but it was still trees. The room was a little better decorated, but nothing I can really point out.

I turned on the a/c and flopped on the bed to try and quit sweating.

Early evening back the same kilometer to town past the same massage come hithers, papayas to buy, and restaurants promising the best fare in town at the best prices. To that same old same restaurant as earlier . This time for spring rolls and honey chicken and a beer . Great dinner. I tipped the same as lunch, about a dollar and the owner gave me a hug when I left.

Some You-tube and some Apple TV and good night 10pm