Wednesday December
9th 2015 – Darjeeling
Dinner was the
same'ish as the previous evening and probably will be tonight. A
soup, this time cilantro, lemon. The Minestrone was better. A couple
cold vegetable salads. A bunch of stuff in brown stuff and some other
stuff in red stuff. The same chicken stuff as the previous night, but
this time it got to share space with the rest of the table. I also
had tap water. Yes I was living on the edge, and best of all, nothing
happened.
I got back to my
room about nine and I had a new addition to my room. The evening
before I was in my jammies (read t-shirt only) reading and
housekeeping knocked on the door several times. He yelled something
and I said “No thank you” and he said “Okay”. Well tonight
when I came in I noticed that the lighting had changed and in bed was
a large plump red hot water bottle all snuggled down under the
covers. That was probably what I 'No thank you’d to last night. It
lived up to it's name too. It was hot! It stayed warm even until
morning. For the first time in Darjeeling I actually felt almost too
warm.
Yesterday's driver
and I were supposed to meet if it was clear and drive to Tiger Hill
to see the Himalayas. Seeing them was supposed to be one of the
highlights of visiting Darjeeling. They had been obscured the entire
time I've been here. If they were not viable then I was going to ride
the Toy Train to Ghoom and back. Then maybe give the chairlift thing
a go. At 530 I got out of bed and took a look. Clouds. Phooey.
World's third highest mountain - from my room |
I got out of bed an
hour later and pulled back the curtains. Fuck-A-Duck! Fuck-A-Duck!
There they were all lit up in the morning's light. It was so excited.
I scurried around the room muttering F-A-D (see above), F-A-D! Where
did I put my camera? F-A-D! I have to catch this before the clouds
return! Luckily the clouds stayed way. I hope the pictures translate
just how awesome the view was from my room this morning.
Hot water things and
then hot air things and some clothes and I was on my way down to
breakfast. No one to visit with. Just me, the staff and half a dozen
Indian men who looked military to me for some reason. I could see
their breath as they talked, no wonder we were all wearing parkas for
breakfast. Except for the monkey at the window, breakfast was normal
in every respect. Immediately after a couple pieces of toast and some
hot, but not good coffee I was in the lobby. The receptionist said my
driver was waiting.
If I had know that I
would have skipped toast and got something later. Tiger Hill is 10
miles past Ghoom. We are at 7000 feet here in Darjeeling, Ghoom is
7500 and Tiger Hill is 8500. Up and up. At the top of the hill the
view was spectacular. When it is totally clear Mount Everest and
Lhotse can be seen far to the west. Today it was just the Third
highest mountain and it was looking good. Would have been better at
sunrise, but woulda coulda.
WE drove back down
the hill to Ghoom to visit a 'Three fer'. The memorial to the Indian
Gurkha’s of WWII, the place where the toy train has to make a
climbing 180 degree turn to gain elevation to get over the crest of
the mountain and the WC. Toss in a little Himalaya gazing as well.
Hen on to a
monastery that was built in 1850 and was really interesting. With
murals that reminded me on those Chinese dragons. Buddha was
surrounded by the same creatures on the altar. I would have taken a
couple pictures inside, bu it was pretty dark and without a tripod
I'd have to us a flash and that would ruin it totally. Maybe I'll
find a picture on the web and inset a link to it.
I am staying at a
hotel that promised Wi-Fi in the lobby and have yet to be able to
connect to it. Last official stop for the day was the internet cafe
to see about flight arrangements for tomorrow and hotel reservations.
Up until this morning I really wasn't certain where I was going
next. The little airport in Bagdora only services four cities. Two
where I didn't want to go, one back to Calcutta that I'd already seen
enough for me and one to Guwahati in Assam. From there is a long
drive to Kaziranga Park where the One Horned Rhinoceros lived and a
couple tigers too. If things work out I might be able to get two days
at the park and then fly direct back to Mumbai for the flight home.
If the park doesn't work out, the airport is large enough to get me
someplace else for a couple days, before Bombay. After the credit
cards were accepted at the airline and the hotel, then came the rub,
as Billy Shakespeare would say.
Tomorrow in
Darjeeling the local tea workers are having a city wide strike. The
shops are closed. No cars are allowed to move. The joint shuts down.
From 6 am to 6 pm. The plane is scheduled to depart Bagdora and 330
pm. With 2 hours before flight time and 3 to 3 ½ hours to Bagdora
from Darjeeling that puts hotel departure via taxi around 10 am. Oops
That ain't gonna work so good. The plan is to leave here at 0500. It
could have been such a nice final morning in Darjeeling too.
So besides an early
start tomorrow and several additional hours spent in a small rural
airport than planned. I'll have to shower tonight, because there is
no hot water in the morning until 630. I guess I could stay here an
extra day, it really is a nice city, but time is getting short in
India for me and when you lose a day traveling it makes all those
days on the calendar suddenly seem a lot closer together than before.
We said Adieu until
the next morning and I began walking downhill to the train station.
The train I saw at the loop was the working train with the Diesel
locomotive. I wanted to see the 1890's steam train locomotives that
are used for the tourist joy rides between Darjeeling and Ghoom.
There are a lot of little streets all switchbacks and intersections,
but if you keep going down eventually you'll come to the train
station.
Along the way I can
hear chanting coming my way uphill. There are no cars coming by and
people are getting scarcer and scarcer. The chanting is getting
closer. I’m starting o remember those State Department emails they
have been sending out lately. – Avoid large crowds – Avoid
political demonstrations – I'm on this box canyon of a street, no
place to go left or right. Impossible for my fluffy out of shape body
to get up the darned hill and I begin to see the banner spanning the
street being carried around the next corner towards me. Then the
throng of people follow the banner, all yelling and chanting. Most in
language the government understands and “We want freedom, now!”
in a language that everyone understands. Maybe if I stand behind this
truck, when the rubber bullets and the tear gas flies I'll be fine.
Uhh .. maybe this truck IS the truck bomb. Errr.. maybe … by this
time the crowd had passed and it was just Grill to Spare, cars and
cars twisting their way down hill behind the marchers.
Down at rail side I
found the Toy train, and it was the steam, not Diesel engine that was
switching cars around the rail yard. I shot some pictures. I don't
think any of the pictures will win any awards, but they are of
interest of days long past. It's been choo chooing since the 1890's
bringing English workers for the East India Company up in the summer
to get away from the heat in Calcutta, and taking tea for export
down. Now it still does that, but the British are now tourists, but
the tea is the same. Ghoom's station is the highest in the world, if
you are ever a contestant on Jeopardy.
The marchers had
apparently reached their destination, because the traffic was moving.
I caught a taxi back up the hill to my hotel to find that the
internet was now working. I logged on and could get FaceBook, words
only no images, but neither of my web email address would connect. I
tried for an hour and came back to my room and my cubby with the
worlds vista at my feet. Next stop Assam.
I got out of bed an
hour later and pulled back the curtains. Fuck-A-Duck! Fuck-A-Duck!
There they were all lit up in the morning's light. It was so excited.
I scurried around the room muttering F-A-D (see above), F-A-D! Where
did I put my camera? F-A-D! I have to catch this before the clouds
return! Luckily the clouds stayed way. I hope the pictures translate
just how awesome the view was from my room this morning.
Hot water things and
then hot air things and some clothes and I was on my way down to
breakfast. No one to visit with. Just me, the staff and half a dozen
Indian men who looked military to me for some reason. I could see
their breath as they talked, no wonder we were all wearing parkas for
breakfast. Except for the monkey at the window, breakfast was normal
in every respect. Immediately after a couple pieces of toast and some
hot, but not good coffee I was in the lobby. The receptionist said my
driver was waiting.
If I had know that I
would have skipped toast and got something later. Tiger Hill is 10
miles past Ghoom. We are at 7000 feet here in Darjeeling, Ghoom is
7500 and Tiger Hill is 8500. Up and up. At the top of the hill the
view was spectacular. When it is totally clear Mount Everest and
Lhotse can be seen far to the west. Today it was just the Third
highest mountain and it was looking good. Would have been better at
sunrise, but woulda coulda.
WE drove back down
the hill to Ghoom to visit a 'Three fer'. The memorial to the Indian
Gurkha’s of WWII, the place where the toy train has to make a
climbing 180 degree turn to gain elevation to get over the crest of
the mountain and the WC. Toss in a little Himalaya gazing as well.
Hen on to a
monastery that was built in 1850 and was really interesting. With
murals that reminded me on those Chinese dragons. Buddha was
surrounded by the same creatures on the altar. I would have taken a
couple pictures inside, bu it was pretty dark and without a tripod
I'd have to us a flash and that would ruin it totally. Maybe I'll
find a picture on the web and inset a link to it.
I am staying at a
hotel that promised Wi-Fi in the lobby and have yet to be able to
connect to it. Last official stop for the day was the internet cafe
to see about flight arrangements for tomorrow and hotel reservations.
Up until this morning I really wasn't certain where I was going
next. The little airport in Bagdora only services four cities. Two
where I didn't want to go, one back to Calcutta that I'd already seen
enough for me and one to Guwahati in Assam. From there is a long
drive to Kaziranga Park where the One Horned Rhinoceros lived and a
couple tigers too. If things work out I might be able to get two days
at the park and then fly direct back to Mumbai for the flight home.
If the park doesn't work out, the airport is large enough to get me
someplace else for a couple days, before Bombay. After the credit
cards were accepted at the airline and the hotel, then came the rub,
as Billy Shakespeare would say.
Tomorrow in
Darjeeling the local tea workers are having a city wide strike. The
shops are closed. No cars are allowed to move. The joint shuts down.
From 6 am to 6 pm. The plane is scheduled to depart Bagdora and 330
pm. With 2 hours before flight time and 3 to 3 ½ hours to Bagdora
from Darjeeling that puts hotel departure via taxi around 10 am. Oops
That ain't gonna work so good. The plan is to leave here at 0500. It
could have been such a nice final morning in Darjeeling too.
So besides an early
start tomorrow and several additional hours spent in a small rural
airport than planned. I'll have to shower tonight, because there is
no hot water in the morning until 630. I guess I could stay here an
extra day, it really is a nice city, but time is getting short in
India for me and when you lose a day traveling it makes all those
days on the calendar suddenly seem a lot closer together than before.
We said Adieu until
the next morning and I began walking downhill to the train station.
The train I saw at the loop was the working train with the Diesel
locomotive. I wanted to see the 1890's steam train locomotives that
are used for the tourist joy rides between Darjeeling and Ghoom.
There are a lot of little streets all switchbacks and intersections,
but if you keep going down eventually you'll come to the train
station.
Along the way I can
hear chanting coming my way uphill. There are no cars coming by and
people are getting scarcer and scarcer. The chanting is getting
closer. I’m starting o remember those State Department emails they
have been sending out lately. – Avoid large crowds – Avoid
political demonstrations – I'm on this box canyon of a street, no
place to go left or right. Impossible for my fluffy out of shape body
to get up the darned hill and I begin to see the banner spanning the
street being carried around the next corner towards me. Then the
throng of people follow the banner, all yelling and chanting. Most in
language the government understands and “We want freedom, now!”
in a language that everyone understands. Maybe if I stand behind this
truck, when the rubber bullets and the tear gas flies I'll be fine.
Uhh .. maybe this truck IS the truck bomb. Errr.. maybe … by this
time the crowd had passed and it was just Grill to Spare, cars and
cars twisting their way down hill behind the marchers.
Down at rail side I
found the Toy train, and it was the steam, not Diesel engine that was
switching cars around the rail yard. I shot some pictures. I don't
think any of the pictures will win any awards, but they are of
interest of days long past. It's been choo chooing since the 1890's
bringing English workers for the East India Company up in the summer
to get away from the heat in Calcutta, and taking tea for export
down. Now it still does that, but the British are now tourists, but
the tea is the same. Ghoom's station is the highest in the world, if
you are ever a contestant on Jeopardy.
The marchers had
apparently reached their destination, because the traffic was moving.
I caught a taxi back up the hill to my hotel to find that the
internet was now working. I logged on and could get FaceBook, words
only no images, but neither of my web email address would connect. I
tried for an hour and came back to my room and my cubby with the
worlds vista at my feet. Next stop Assam.
I got out of bed an
hour later and pulled back the curtains. Fuck-A-Duck! Fuck-A-Duck!
There they were all lit up in the morning's light. It was so excited.
I scurried around the room muttering F-A-D (see above), F-A-D! Where
did I put my camera? F-A-D! I have to catch this before the clouds
return! Luckily the clouds stayed way. I hope the pictures translate
just how awesome the view was from my room this morning.
Hot water things and
then hot air things and some clothes and I was on my way down to
breakfast. No one to visit with. Just me, the staff and half a dozen
Indian men who looked military to me for some reason. I could see
their breath as they talked, no wonder we were all wearing parkas for
breakfast. Except for the monkey at the window, breakfast was normal
in every respect. Immediately after a couple pieces of toast and some
hot, but not good coffee I was in the lobby. The receptionist said my
driver was waiting.
If I had know that I
would have skipped toast and got something later. Tiger Hill is 10
miles past Ghoom. We are at 7000 feet here in Darjeeling, Ghoom is
7500 and Tiger Hill is 8500. Up and up. At the top of the hill the
view was spectacular. When it is totally clear Mount Everest and
Lhotse can be seen far to the west. Today it was just the Third
highest mountain and it was looking good. Would have been better at
sunrise, but woulda coulda.
WE drove back down
the hill to Ghoom to visit a 'Three fer'. The memorial to the Indian
Gurkha’s of WWII, the place where the toy train has to make a
climbing 180 degree turn to gain elevation to get over the crest of
the mountain and the WC. Toss in a little Himalaya gazing as well.
Hen on to a
monastery that was built in 1850 and was really interesting. With
murals that reminded me on those Chinese dragons. Buddha was
surrounded by the same creatures on the altar. I would have taken a
couple pictures inside, bu it was pretty dark and without a tripod
I'd have to us a flash and that would ruin it totally. Maybe I'll
find a picture on the web and inset a link to it.
I am staying at a
hotel that promised Wi-Fi in the lobby and have yet to be able to
connect to it. Last official stop for the day was the internet cafe
to see about flight arrangements for tomorrow and hotel reservations.
Up until this morning I really wasn't certain where I was going
next. The little airport in Bagdora only services four cities. Two
where I didn't want to go, one back to Calcutta that I'd already seen
enough for me and one to Guwahati in Assam. From there is a long
drive to Kaziranga Park where the One Horned Rhinoceros lived and a
couple tigers too. If things work out I might be able to get two days
at the park and then fly direct back to Mumbai for the flight home.
If the park doesn't work out, the airport is large enough to get me
someplace else for a couple days, before Bombay. After the credit
cards were accepted at the airline and the hotel, then came the rub,
as Billy Shakespeare would say.
Tomorrow in
Darjeeling the local tea workers are having a city wide strike. The
shops are closed. No cars are allowed to move. The joint shuts down.
From 6 am to 6 pm. The plane is scheduled to depart Bagdora and 330
pm. With 2 hours before flight time and 3 to 3 ½ hours to Bagdora
from Darjeeling that puts hotel departure via taxi around 10 am. Oops
That ain't gonna work so good. The plan is to leave here at 0500. It
could have been such a nice final morning in Darjeeling too.
So besides an early
start tomorrow and several additional hours spent in a small rural
airport than planned. I'll have to shower tonight, because there is
no hot water in the morning until 630. I guess I could stay here an
extra day, it really is a nice city, but time is getting short in
India for me and when you lose a day traveling it makes all those
days on the calendar suddenly seem a lot closer together than before.
We said Adieu until
the next morning and I began walking downhill to the train station.
The train I saw at the loop was the working train with the Diesel
locomotive. I wanted to see the 1890's steam train locomotives that
are used for the tourist joy rides between Darjeeling and Ghoom.
There are a lot of little streets all switchbacks and intersections,
but if you keep going down eventually you'll come to the train
station.
Along the way I can
hear chanting coming my way uphill. There are no cars coming by and
people are getting scarcer and scarcer. The chanting is getting
closer. I’m starting o remember those State Department emails they
have been sending out lately. – Avoid large crowds – Avoid
political demonstrations – I'm on this box canyon of a street, no
place to go left or right. Impossible for my fluffy out of shape body
to get up the darned hill and I begin to see the banner spanning the
street being carried around the next corner towards me. Then the
throng of people follow the banner, all yelling and chanting. Most in
language the government understands and “We want freedom, now!”
in a language that everyone understands. Maybe if I stand behind this
truck, when the rubber bullets and the tear gas flies I'll be fine.
Uhh .. maybe this truck IS the truck bomb. Errr.. maybe … by this
time the crowd had passed and it was just Grill to Spare, cars and
cars twisting their way down hill behind the marchers.
Down at rail side I
found the Toy train, and it was the steam, not Diesel engine that was
switching cars around the rail yard. I shot some pictures. I don't
think any of the pictures will win any awards, but they are of
interest of days long past. It's been choo chooing since the 1890's
bringing English workers for the East India Company up in the summer
to get away from the heat in Calcutta, and taking tea for export
down. Now it still does that, but the British are now tourists, but
the tea is the same. Ghoom's station is the highest in the world, if
you are ever a contestant on Jeopardy.
The marchers had
apparently reached their destination, because the traffic was moving.
I caught a taxi back up the hill to my hotel to find that the
internet was now working. I logged on and could get FaceBook, words
only no images, but neither of my web email address would connect. I
tried for an hour and came back to my room and my cubby with the
worlds vista at my feet. Next stop Assam.
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