Sunday December 14 2014 – Siem Reap,
Cambodia
After yesterday's entry I went to
Angkor Wat to get a picture with the late afternoon sun. The last
time I was here as soon as the afternoon started to fade the clouds
came out and obscured the string shadows and the nice blue sky.
Yesterday was no exception. As soon as the sky heard the roar of the
125cc motorcycle connected to the cart it called in the clouds.
Piffle.
One thing this one trip did point out
to me is that the world's economy must be doing much better than
2012. The main temple at Angkor Wat was in danger of sinking back
into the jungle with all the added weight of the tourists. The last
sunset photo I took at Angkor Wat maybe had a hundred people on the
entrance walkway at 5 pm. Yesterday's 5 pm there must have been a
thousand, plus the people lining the moat, where I used to be alone.
Of course I took a bunch of shots, but I fear I already have the same
at home on the hard drive.
Dinner, some TV and bed. Woke at 2 am
with no headache, ya!! Woke at 3 am with headache. Boo! It was gone
after getting up and a cup of coffee and a shower. I sure wish I
could figure out the trigger, besides the wee hour.
I had a seven-thirty taxi reserved to
get me out to a distant temple. It is about an hour and a half away
and I wanted to get there before the tour buses, but wasn't too
worried, because the internet and Lonely Planet both said that “You
might be the only people there”. So just in case I decided to get
an early start.
As I was leaving the hotel I started a
short conversation with a retired US male. He was at loose ends so I
said I was going anyway and he was welcome to tag along. He said that
sounded good and he would split the taxi with me. I told him that was
unnecessary but it would be nice.
Well that was a mistake. Not one that
ruined the trip, but certainly changed it in a way I would have
preferred it not to. We passed through the countryside which was
totally different that it is at the end of the dry season, not the
start of the dry season. In March the fields are dry and remind me of
California's dryness. Now the fields are lush and the ponds are full
of lilies blooming. The going was slow because of the oxen pulling
the carts heaped with grasses. It was a different world.
I almost missed it, because Mike
would-not-shut-the-fuck-up. It was a freaking monologue without
break. To add to it, he would start a story, or thought, go off and a
tangent and forget the point of his rambling. Finally I quit trying
to make any sort of conversation because it was just his disjointed
thoughts. To add even more to drive me crazy he had no idea, I mean
no idea about the history or significance of the Angkor Wat and
surrounding areas. He was happy to stay in town and look at the
cricket sellers on the unpaved back streets. That is any town
Cambodia and he had been to some other town in Cambodia. There is a
reason I travel alone. I guess I need a reminder from time to time.
Don'[t get me started on the 80 year
old Australian lady who invited herself to my dinner and had nothing
good to say about anything or anybody, at a loud volume. She was hard
of hearing you know?
If these people are what is in store
for me in another decade or so. Please slip the cyanide in my warm
milk now.
We got to the temple just about nine
and there was a big bus there already and a few private vehicles. Not
bad, but not optimal. We approached the temple and a caretaker lady
motioned that if we went where she was standing there was a better
photo op than from the entrance walkway. So we stepped off the wooden
walkway and over some flat rocks and the photo would indeed be better
there. Then she had us cross a small dry moat on a conveniently
placed slab. We started back to the walkway and she pointed to a
doorway that was in such bad repair the they had placed timbers under
the lentil and cross beams. Go in there she mimes, it's okay. There
isn't a full flat surface for the next hour and a half as she leads
us through the warren of broken walls and ceilings. Rubble, all with
square corners and me fluffier (not fat) than I want to be and still
a bump on the back of my head. She lead us to some great places and
after I would take the absolutely perfect picture from where I was
standing, she would point out a different angle the made a much
better photo. For as dangerous and scary it was at times she really,
really made my visit ten times better that it would have been without
her. At one point we got to what looked like a good place to call it
quits and then she pointed out the surrounding wall and no exit. It
was either back the way we came or to continue on. Some smart guy
once said “When you are going through Hell, keep going”. So we
kept going.
At the next flat area it was obviously
the end of the rock balancing, tomb raiding for us, because it was
full of tourists and the wooden staircase/walkway was there. She lead
us up the stairway and we ran smack head on to a mass of bus people
who didn't realize that there might be other humans in the world
besides themselves. No concept of lanes of traffic, No concept of
personal space or of pushing you out of their way at the narrowest
and highest part of the walkway. Finally I lost all thought of any
decorum and just started acting the way they were. Nobody said a
thing. It was just the way life is in those overcrowded cities of
over populated countries. She and I must have passed 3 full bus
fulls. At the main entrance we had to wait for a few minutes for Mike
to catch up.
She's a probably been happy with a
five, I hit her with a ten and told her in front of Mike “This is
from me. You need to talk to him too.” So she got another five,
kind of giving me an inkling of the 'split the taxi' topic.
Back at the hotel I was ten dollars shy
of the full fare on me. The rest of my cash was in the room's safe. I
told Mike I needed at least ten and he started patting his pockets.
“I'm missing my wallet.” Are you serious? After a bunch of
patting and a short walk outside he found it and did pony up the ten,
but the remainder of the half of the fare was never offered. I guess
he felt keeping my entertained with conversation was enough for a guy
to do.
We went our separate ways and I had a
non-alcoholic cocktail, but really wanted a double. After a bit of
time on the chaise lounge by the pool I looked up and just a couple
puffy clouds in the sky along with blazing sun. Maybe today was the
Angkor Wat afternoon picture day. It was. As they say in the porn
industry, I think I got the money shot.
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