Thursday February 27
2020
Cinque Terre, Italy
Well, that was more
of an adventure than I had planned, but let’s go back to last
night.
I had reservations
at a Michelin stared restaurant for dinner. I don’t get many
chances for such an experience. Oh, I’ve eaten as several
restaurants run my chefs, but never one of their restaurants that had
actually earned a star. I figured I’d never get a chance again, so
let’s blow today’s budget.
I made a reservation
for 7:30 hoping to get in on the early bird special. When I say early
bird, I mean that I was the only customer for the first hour. Just me
and the staff. As the meal came I was watched like a hawk by the
owner to see my reaction. I had ordered one of his three tasting
menus. The only problem with the tasting menu is that the entire
table has to order the same. One of the few times dining solo has
it’s perks.
The meal started
with the chef bringing a hot cup of broth, to warm me up. I was
already pretty warm from walking to the restaurant, but it was
welcomed. Then an Amuse Buche, and then the meal started in earnest.
Wild boar, with Fiore Gras, pomegranate stars on a nice sauce. I
think you are getting the idea. There were about 10 courses, each one
as good or better than the one before. All the ingredients he used
were ones you and I have used before, but certainly without his
knowledge and touch. The only thing he made that I’d never heard of
to eat was Rooster Comb. The red crown like thing that roosters have.
It wasn’t bad a little gelatin like, just an odd thing to consider
serving. The meal kept coming and coming, and one dish before the
dessert came, I was about to call ‘Uncle’. I was stuffed, but I
didn’t want to offend the chef, or miss out on what he came up yet.
After two and a half hours the food stopped arriving. The cooks are
in this giant fish bowl affair and so everything they do is on
display. Along with the tasting menu I’d ordered a glass of red
wine and a big bottle of water. When the bill came it was 115 Euros,
somewhere close to $125. Christ ! I have spent more than that at a
restaurant 20 miles from home. Granted it was a great meal, but it
was a Big Mac in comparison to this delight. Before this meal I use
to have a favorite meal, but it has now slipped to second place. This
was the best meal I have ever had.
Leaving the
restaurant a little after 10pm I walked back to the hotel, possibly a
half to three quarters of a mile. Through well it alleys and streets
feeling completely safe, except for the occasion Italian driver. When
I got into bed I had a hard time going to sleep thinking about that
meal.
Today was my travel
to Cinque Terre day. I got t the madhouse of a train station and
looked t both the major and the local arrivals/departures board and
didn’t see my train. One of the staff steered me in the right
direction and finding a seat we were off. I had left my big bag at
the hotel and just brought my computer/camera backpack and my trusty
blue backpack with 3 days of clothes. I stuffed these in the overhead
rack. Ever since I had my camera borrowed from me in South Africa I
have been very careful not to pull it out when on a train. There was
a guy who go on late and took a seat near the door. He checked
everyone out and his eyes strayed to my bags. I made evil eye contact
with him and near the same time the conductor walked through. He
leaned into the aisle to see where the conductor went and as soon as
the conductor left the car, he was out of his seat and moving to a
different car.
So we chug along and
stop here and there until the end of the line, where get off and
change trains. We got in at 1357 and my train left at 1402. I went to
the right track and leaped on just as the doors were closing. After a
few stops I asked a guy if this was the right train, I just had a
feeling. He said no the 1402 was late, this was the train before
that. I got off and the next station in Hicksville Italy. No ticket
agent, nothing. I my Apple watch made English into Italian for a lady
sitting close too the door asking when the next train back to my
change point was. She said no, you want to go that other way. I got
on that train and found a map where it was going and it wast where I
wanted to be going. I hopped off and trotted along the train until I
got to the conductor want to blow his whistle to send the train off.
He held the train long enough to tell me to get the second train and
get off at ???? and switch there. Fuck me ! I followed his
instructions and here I am.
Ya, go to Cinque
Terre, you’ll love it they said. It is 45 degrees, the wind is
blowing 20mph with gusts to 30, and it’s raining. Eamonn you can go
to the west coast of Ireland in February look out over the Atlantic
and feel right at home, except you’d be warmer. This is going to be
soooo much fun.
H, did I say the
place I’m staying is a mile from the train station and there are no
cabs?
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