Wednesday, March 20, 2013

300 up one big one down



Sunday March 17th 2013 - Mekong River.

It's mid day and I think I've quit my bitching. We still haven't entered the Apocalypse Now / John Kerry part of the Mekong. That part where the boat's sides scrape along the jungle that threatens to over take the river. According to the boat's Purser that should happen later today. Right now we are in a very wide spot,  maybe a mile wide. We are back exactly where we boarded the boat yesterday.

Last night we anchored mid stream a few hundred yards from here. I went to bed around ten p.m. and found the bed to be a little firm (but both beds here in Cambodia have been firm) but comfy cozy. I nodded of pretty quickly and got a good solid six and a bunch of flopping for 2. I looked at the window and saw that the light had changed so fired up the immersion heater and made myself a cup of Starbucks and wandered up to smoke my last cigarette and sip my coffee. I was the only tourist up around then, of course the crew had beat me by hours I'm sure. Then back to my cabin for a shower and get ready to face the day. One thing I can say about the boat. Their hot water is really hot. None of this wimpy 130 degree stuff I get at home. Nope. This is pure near 180 degree stuff. After that luke cold shower in Siem Reap it was a welcomed blessing to actually get totally wet and soapy.

Then breakfast of course. The exact same thing as any big hotel chain. Go back and read breakfast in Siem Reap and you got the exact thing only in miniature. Except, and this is big. The orange juice is real, not Tang (The drink of astronauts). I am an orange juice snob it seems. As we were dining we were also motoring up river. I think this is the first time I've been on a vessel when they raised the anchor. A machine gun of an engine vibrating the entire boat.

Around 8:30 a.m. we nosed into the bank (1.5 meters of draft) and tied us to a couple trees. Then we trooped up this medium sized hill to a multi religious site. Both Buddha and Shiva are represented, but mostly Buddha. Ry explained the life of the Buddha and then we entered a temple and I got some (I hope) nice first tourist type shots of my trip. I don't consider the 5 minute stop to look at the rubber tree exactly a highlight on the tourist check list. So at that point, I kind of felt that my vacation part of the trip had finally started. We wandered a bit and got the lectures on a monk's life and such and then walked 300 steps down the hill back to the boat (a nice paved trail lead us up). A little nervous making one of those  - if you stumble you are going to do a lot of bouncing on the way down, because there are no landings every fifty steps. Just three hundred steep steps down.

Back to the boat that turned around to where we had started from yesterday where we nosed into the bank and had lunch and drinkie poos and such in preparation for a village tour later this afternoon. Lunch was a sit down and get served affair, like dinner. Today's protein choices were beef and crocodile. It tastes like chicken. :)
o.k. -- I'll try and get back with y'all after dinner.

My boat was a bus



Hey, hey, L.B.J. How many kids you killed today ?
 - John Kerry (probably)

Saturday March 16 2013 - Mekong River, Canbodia

Finally the reason for the trip has begun. I'm not traveling in between places to get to see the sights.


I awoke with a gigantic headache. I thought it was from sinus problems brought on by the nearly 24 hours a day of air conditioning. I tried all the things that make my sinus headaches abate and it still raged. Finally the light above my head went on and I thought it might be caffeine withdrawals. I've been drinking some coffee, but not nearly my requisite cups at home and the the double triple Starbucks Americano. I doubled up on the Starbucks Via packets and the sugar. Within 20 minutes I was fully recovered. With the added bonus of a fixed exhaust pipe.

Breakfast was fine. The usual buffet you get including and egg station and a noodle station. Fruits, cereals, juices and breads. It was missing croissants and marmalade though. The dining room was a large cavern affair and even though it was half filled I'm glad I was alone, because conversation would have been very difficult. I decided to get some local money since all I had were U.S. dollars and I figured it would be easier to navigate the local economy with the local coin of the realm. I gave the woman the the hotel a Benjamin and since threre was a worn crease down Ben's face she wouldn't accept it. Crikie ! I'll find someplace to accept it at another place I suppose. After all that minor hissy fit over the bad C note I went to a different hotel to meet the boat/bus and handed her a different hundred and asked got change. She whipped out 3 twentys, two tens, 2 fives and ten singles in U.S. dollars. It seems U.S. dollars are the preferred currency even over the local stuff.

I caught a remork-moto to the hotel where the meeting for the boat was. Now there is the place to stay. Quiet. Green. Lush. The staff walking noislessly probably on little clouds. I thought that perhaps a splurge might be in order when I returned. It was a nice thirty second dream until she quoted me a $225 Superior and a $250 Deluxe (with a pool view) a night. I guess they don't have and regular rooms. I asked for a multi night - cash discount. Well at least she didn't laugh in my face. Though she did make it perfectly clear that, that was the price. Fine !

The boat's guide Ry (pronounced Ree) asked me how long I'd been in town and if I'd seen any temples. I said "They have temples here ??! Cool !". I'm still not certain that he knew if I was joking of not. At the appointed time we boarded the appointed bus. Another damn bus ! Well it is going to be a short drive to the nearby lake to get on the boat. Five hours later we arrived at the boat. Its a six hour bus ride to Phnom Penh. We did stop for one 15 minute pit stop and a 2 minute look at a rubber tree. The rest of the time was another stinking bus ride. Ry did a good job explaining things like how most of the people live, the Pol Pot years and Pol Pot's life story. But still it was another bus ride.

This cruise is not panning out as I had imagined. We got on the boat and had the obligatory safety and this is how the boat works speech. Then he explained the itinerary. Most of the people on the boat are going on to Ho Chi Minh City in Viet Nam. My 3 night / 4 day cruise down the Mekong looks something like this. ! day bus ride. Moor out in the middle of the river, Cruise up the river tomorrow and get off to see a temple in the morning. Back to the boat for lunch at the same place we got on. Spend the night someplace. Sail down to Phnom Penh oor in the middle of the river and then depart the next day, probably on another stinking bus. Not quite the days spent leisurely chugging down the Mekong watching the green countryside flow by. Just like John Kerry saw in his Swift boat in the 1960's. Maybe I'm pre bitching. I certainly hope so.

This group is certainly less stuffy than last years group. Only 18 people on a boat that generally carries 60 so there is lots of comradery. Add in the mix four couples from Australia and it's good times all the time. Tomorrow I'll probably singing a totally different tune. Either about how much I love the trip or how much I hate my crew mates. The tribes have been established. The Aussies hand about one another and make a lot of noise and generally have a heck of a good time. The Brits and the Norse hang out in their pairs, alone but will happily mix when necessary. The single woman from Norway tries, but hasn't found her clique yet. I and the woman from Canada kind of flow from group to group, but I find  myself hanging with the Aussies more and more.

Dinner was a formal (not formal dress) sit down affair. Four courses soup to dessert. It was good tourist hotel food. Not gourmet, but not bad either. Above average but nothing I would travel 20 miles for.. Then after most of us slipped up to the sun deck on the top of the boat and they chatted and I typed this.



 

Friday, March 15, 2013

The longest border crossing - EVER

You forget how absolutely wonderful the first sip of a cold beer can be, until it's 90 degrees and 100% humidity
 - Theresa Porter

March 15 2013 - Siem Reap, Cambodia

Arrived in Sien Reap, Cambodia around 6 p.m. after a nine hour bus ride. Well actually the bus ride was only 7 hours, the Immigration formalities between two third world countries took up two complete hours. But lets start where we left off last.

Around 5 p.m. my internal jet lagged body was screaming for food. I had stayed awake after my three or fours in bed, and then just hung out at the hotel the rest of the day. Later in the afternoon I realized the last meal I had was a scrumptious something I couldn't remember at midnight somewhere over the Gulf of Tonkin.  I ordered a club sandwich. You know one of those triple deckers filled with lettuce, tomato, bacon and ham or turkey slathered in mayonase. What came was not bad, but it's only resemblance to the 'Club' of my mind was the three slices of bread. It did have lettuce and tomato and some mayo the bacon morphed into a fried egg and the ham or turkey became some type of fried fish. It was good, even though it was not quite what I was expecting.

I flounced back uo to my room and fought the jet-lag monster. I was hoping for a Dungeons and Dragons twenty sided die to roll to fight this critter. Alas no D20's were available. I watched the HBO docudrama Game Change about Sarah Palin's run for vice president and at 8 I gave in to the comfort of the pillows. 2 a.m. was the best I could manage. My body said it was noon and time to get up. I did the get up, go back to bed dance until around 6 and gave up to face the day.

Breakfast and then check out followed over the next two hours. Check out was odd, I am still not certain if the Ramada and hotels.com both charged me for the stay or not. I'll have to check my credit card when I get home I guess. Then the first hurdle of the day came. I asked for a taxi to take me to the bus station to catch a bus to Cambodia.  "Which station? We have two or three." How in the world am I supposed to know ? I'm just a tourist. Finally in some obscure part of the Lonely Planet guidebook I found the right bus station and the trip began.

The taxi got me there easily and I walked into the bus station. Three blocks long with the walls lined with bus companies spaced 20 feet apart. All written in some odd script that even a Rosetta Stone couldn't decipher. I gave up my pride and threw myself to the mercy of the information booth. He turned and pointed to the nearest booth and smiled. I don't know if it was an actual smile or the stupid tourist does it again smile. Either way I said to the woman behind the glass "Cambodia" she said 750 Bhat (around $25) and the bus leaves in 20 minutes. I thought 25 clams was a little much for a ride to the border, but WTF at least I was moving.

At nine sharp we were pulling out and on the road bound for an adventure. The guidebook had all said ride the bust to the border. Get your Visa for Cambodia. Walk across the bridge and catch a taxi to Siem Reap. As it turned out this bus did go all the way to Sien Reap and I'm here to tell you it was a Godsend. The bus was three quarters full and I believe I was the only U.S. citizen on board. Japan, Norway, Poland, China and Russia were all represented.

Orange juice and cake were served along the way. Around 1 p.m. we arrived at the the border.  We first stopped at some Visa getter broker that cost a few dollars more than I had expected. Not enough to kill the trip, just enough for me to say loudly "This is bullshit." I didn't realize the word "Bullshit" was so universally understood. This process ate up two or three cigarettes and lunch on the bus. Next came the exit from Thailand. The actual process was only 30 seconds, the line was an actual 30 minutes. Then came the oddest thing I'd never seen. In the No Mans Land between Thai Immigration and Cambodian Immigration for a quarter mile was clustered with huge hotels / Casino complexes.  Not quite Las Vegas but very plush none the less. I don't know what to make of them. Maybe they are on Indian land.

Finally came the line for Cambodian Immigration. It stretched out of a ovenlike metal tunnel and a block more. The bus driver came up to me and said for 100 Bhat he's have the line taken care of for me. Give him my passport and the 100 and go back and sit in the A/C on the bus. Several of us took advantage of this. Good to his word an hour later my passport was back in hand with all the requsite stamps and stomps.

I'm flying back to Bangkok.

After nine hours we arrived in here in Siem Reap. I caught the first available Remork-moto to my hotel. I had traveled around cities in India in Tuk-Tuks before. Little lawnmower powered death traps that would seat two westerners  and a basketball team of locals. Here their version, the Remork-moto is a covered cart the same size as a tuk-tuk pulled behind a Honda fifty (maybe it is bigger than 50 c.c.) With bugs flying in my eyes and my hair blossoming behind me we sped to the hotel I had reserved.

Big, focused around an huge swimming pool with tour busses in the front yard is my home for tonight. The room is large and the A/C is meager, but it has everything I want so I'm content. Especially after that afore mentioned beer.


Still no pictures.

www.dear-dorothy.com

Thursday, March 14, 2013

Beds and the thirty six hours in between

A good traveler has no fixed plans, and is not intent on arriving.
 - Lao Tzu

Thursday March 14 2013 - noon
Bangkok

What a trip so far. I guess I shouldn't have said all those nice things at the beginning of the trip, because after that the wheels came off the bus.

I am still a bit sleep deprived and my double morning java express hasn't really started to work yet, but here goes. 36 hours between beds and 10 time zones will do that to a girl I guess.

The plan was scheduled to depart at 1:50 pm and so I got to the airport in plenty of time to get checked in and through T.S.A.'s theater of security. I scanned my bar code into the kiosk and it had all my information as well as a note that the plane was going to be delayed by an hour. No disaster yet. I had a two hour layover in Tokyo (NRT) and now that was whittled down to 1 hour. I could make that, but there wouldn't be any dilly dallying between planes.

2 pm. came and went and finaly at around two thirty we got to boarding, but the ground crew assured us that the connections in NRT world still work. Since the plane was in late from Amsterdam we needed to refuel at the gate, using little trucks instead of those big semi trailers I am used to seeing. The little trucks lined up and slowly began to refill our thirsty Airbus. The plane gulped down it's fill and then sat there - and sat there -- and sat there. The man on the flight deck came on the intercom and said that since they weren't filling as usual that the computers in Atlanta would not accept the weights and balances input and they would have to calculate it by hand, just another few minutes, Folks. I don't suppose I need to elaborate too much on what happened from there. Besides making for nervous time about whether whoever was making the calculations had passed sixth grade math, it took him or her forever to do the calculations. So much for my two hour window in Tokyo.

Eventually the numbers got input, and I hope double checked and we pulled away from the gate, did a taxi turned a but corner and were pressed back into our seats and this miaricle of European engineering sped down the tarmack. The nose lifted and then the main gear and I waited for the out of balance rocket to wallow and either fall in a huge fuel filled fireball or wake us for a cold wintery dip in Puget Sound. Neither of course happened.

The guy next to me was from Saskatchawan and going to meet his Thai wife in Bangkok (BKK). Wifey number one had died of cancer three years ago and he had met his current wife through a friend while in Thailand playing goilf.  Canadian Immigration was holding things up ... etc, etc. This I learned all before cruising altitude. Only nin hours and forty-five minutes of a ten hour flight to go. Then his conversation came around to the book he was reading. I don't remember the exact name of the book but it was something like - You are wacko. Here is how to fix yourself - and of course I must read it, because in the 20 minutes we had know each other he could tell that I was a perfect candidate for help.

At long last we got to 'altitude' and the inflight entertainment came on and I was able to hide behind my shield of protection. My Bose 2 noise canceling headphones. Well mostly anyway.

Three or so movies and four periods if airline food we began our decent into Tokyo three hours late.The pilot warned us that NRT had been experiencing high winds all ay (gusts over 50 mph) but it was  much calmer now. Because of the high winds many planes had been diverted to nearby airports and there was a good chance any necessary connections would still be available. No one clapped upon touching down in Tokyo, though thi]s was one time I thought it was warranted. he plane rocked and rolled as we approached the ground and really started  yawing (or is it pitching?) as we got closer and closer to the ground and our maker. I briefly gave some thought that perhaps I should have read a little of my seatmate's book before my demise and forgot that idea as soon as the main gear settled onto the Japanese concrete.

We scurried like rats from a sin king ship into the terminal and found ourselves in a new line to go through security another time. Same as in Seattle only slower in spite of no requirement to remover shoes or belts.

The departures board had our next flight listed on the board with the large red flashing word INDEFINITE next to it. A little asking around and a few eaves dropped conversations I learned that the flight was one of the ones diverted and would be departing at 9:45 pm. At nine the red word listed a gate and it was obvious to me that the nine forty-five number was jst a W.A.G. (a Wild assed guess - in pilot parlance). The plane was at the gate when I got there and then it wasn't and a different piece of equipment was there in it's place. Okay so they have to clean it, refill it with food, get the crew on board, do and redo their checklists and THEN get a plane load of impatient souls and their hand carry trunks on board. Maybe we would make it in time for me to catch my flight home in 21 more days.

I settled into my seat and then did that waiting chant I generally do - Oh, airplane Gods, please let the seat next to me remain vacant. I guess my earlier pleas to the Gods to arriving alive into Tokyo was my quota for the day, because soon there was the smiling face of the occupant for 38H looking down at me from the aisle. It was Jim, my previous SEA to NRT seatmate. He said they had changed his seat at the last minute. Seven more hours in a cramped seat next to an evangelist.

It soon became clear that the flight was not even close to being full and as soon as the doors closed the ganes of aircraft Musical Chairs began. Jim hopped across the aisle into a four across and then traded wit a woman for her window /aisle twofer and we all had room to stretch out and get a few hours of tossing and turning in our own small worlds.

I managed 4 or five hours of non awareness (it might have been called sleep or it might not have).. We arrived in BKK at four-fifty a.m. a full five hours late.  I had purchased travel insurance for the medical - emergency evacuation coverage. There was a clause for delayed luggage and delayed flight compensation. I'll have to review it later and see if there is a claim there for me.

A couple miles of moving walkways and then Immigration and my bag happily spinning on the merry-go-round and I was officially in Thailand. As I was securing my big puffy down filled purple coat to my luggage and man approached and asked me if I needed a taxi. I said Yes and asked how much. 700 Bhat ($25 +/-). My only question to him was "Is it YOUR taxi?". He said it was a friend's taxi and I blew him off. Enough traveling had taught me that he was just hustling for a commission from the real taxi driver and it was not going to be a negotiation in my favor. I caught an official metered taxi to my hotel and the bill came to 400 Bhat, even with a healthy 100 Bhat ($3.50 +/-) tip I was still ahead.

The room is nice. Clean and new. I had to turn the air conditioning down from the 'meat locker' setting to something more fit for human existence. A short shower and into my jammies for about four solid hours of slumber.

So here we are now, full of coffee, sitting by the pool getting stickier by the moment waiting for a Coke Zero and thoroughly enjoying life.  I don't expect to leave the property until tomorrow when I wend my way to Cambodia. It's a little after one pm and I just don't feel like negotiating the madness of a new city that I'm only going to spend 30 hours in. Maybe at the end of the trip I'll venture into Bangkok for a day or two.

Tuesday, March 12, 2013

Let the bitching begin !

And so it begins ...

Dear Dorothy

Wow, only twenty three more hours and I'll be off the plane at my destination. That is if I get to me destination. Upon checking in I find that my flight has been delayed departing Seattle over and hour. I had an hour and a half connection in Tokyo and that has now been whittled down to about 30 minutes. To make matters more interesting I am sitting near the back of the plane (in case it crashes - you always see the tail in one piece) which means that every person who is making their trip of a lifetime will be blocking the aisles with their forty pounds of carry-on luggage before me. I hope I can figure out which gate I'm going to and can make it in time, otherwise I can probably extend this leg of the trip an additional few hours.

I tried to get on the stand-by upgrade list to no avail. Tiffany said "Dress nicely, it worked for me one time.". The Seat Guru said "Get a frequent flyer card (I already had one of those with a current quarter million miles on it). American Express said "Get our GOLD CARD and get free up grades." - The ticket agent said "Your ticket doesn't qualify unless you pay an additional $3000 for full fare on international flights." Now if I can just get a crying baby in the seat next to me life will be complete.

Do I always start out bitching about things on these trips ? Now if I could just get an internet connection on the $%*$%# Free-WiFi I could go back and rear my previous emails and find out. But Nooooo.....

The hotel was nice. The room was large. There was supposed to be one of those beds with a balloon as the mattress that you are supposed to be able to pump up at the press of a button - I had a male friend who had something similar, but on a smaller scale, MUCH smaller. The bed's balloon didn't work. The hotel had just gone through a remodel and smelled that chemical smell of new carpeting.  They must have gotten the carpets from a Las Vegas casino overstock. I had read once the the carpeting in casino was intentionally obnoxious to keep you from looking at the floor and looking at the machines and glitter. My room's only machine was the television, but the carpeting brought back an interesting flashback from my wild days in the 60's.

I left the room at 6 a.m. to step outside and immediately remembered I had forgotten something in the room. Could I get the key card to work? Well you already know the answer to that question. I got a new key from the front desk, along with a toothbrush (somehow I forgot to pack one of those (but Ed and Erin - I did remember my floss !!)). That new key didn't work so well either, eventually after half a dozen tries and holding my mouth -- juuust riiight -- it opened.

Grabbed a quick overpriced breakfast and the shuttle to the airport. I was able to get nearly naked and get my annual dose of radiation and somehow got past TSA's "Theater of Security" even with my middle finger extended for the x-ray operator.

So now I'm current. I'll re-boot the 'puter and see if I can coax the WiFi Gods into cooperating with me.

Monday, March 11, 2013

On the road again - 2013

There is no moment of delight in any pilgrimage like the beginning of it.
 - Charles Dudley Warner

Monday March 11 2013
Seattle, USA

Dear Dorothy

I hope you are acting as a good guest should and enjoying the fun times at "Birdy Camp". I heard that your 'Birds of a feather' - buddy, Greenster acted like a spoiled Amazon and tried to take on one of the camp counselors. It looks like no peanuts for a while for him when I get home.

Last night as you were squawking around the campfire chirping Coom By Ya I was having a last piece of grain fed beef at a friend's home. A very nice send off and totally unexpected. I had planned on staying home and checking my luggage one last time. To make sure that there are not one single thing that I MIGHT need no matter how insignificant - just in case. I decided steak was more important that trying to micro manage my trip. Besides I didn't have time to buy a truss today in case I continued to over pack.

Today was boring. I got up at the normal time, did my normal coffee, watched my normal morning News/scandal and new terror inducing television program, Good Morning America. Then made a quick dash to R.E.I. to get a pair of sandals and an around the neck pouch to hold my passport. Hopefully I won't leave the darned thing at a hotel desk this trip.

My friend came and picked me up and took me to the airport, where the line to the ticket counter was short. The check in was easy and I even got the baggage fee waived. The plane was on time. The skies were smooth and we arrived a few minutes early.

I remembered my hotel's name, got checked in. My room is at the end of the hallway away from the elevators and vending machines.

All in all it was a snooze of a day. Sorry no tales from the wild side. I assume that will happen at 3 a.m. in Bangkok at the conclusion of a 20 hour trans Pacific flight.

Thursday, February 28, 2013

22 days - Thailand / Cambodia


Well in a little more than a week I'll be sending Dorothy and The Greenster off to Birdy Camp for three fun filled weeks of screaming and learning bad habits.

I on the other hand will be spending three horrid weeks locked inside aluminum tubes for hours on end. Being sleep deprived. Having to eat things that are not on my normal plate. Carry all my possessions with me. View the world through a little tiny machine strapped around my neck. All so the birds can go to Birdy Camp.

I expect to leave here March 11th and return April 3rd. Seattle to Bangkok via Tokyo. I arrive in Bangkok twenty or so hours later at 11:30 pm, which translates to 3 am before I find a bed. The room is reserved for two nights (Well a night and a half actually)

After the second night I will somehow make it from Bangkok, Thailand to Siem Rep, Cambodia. The location of Angkor Wat. from there on out until April 3rd, no plans are firm yet.

I'm giving some thought to taking a river cruise from Siem Rep down the Mekong to Phnom Penh. Spending a few days in Phnom Penh, going back to Siem Rep to see Angkor Wat for three or four days. Then heading out to perhaps the seaside town of Kep. But who knows?

Wish me luck in my misery and don't be jealous of those lucky birds at Birdy Camp.

 - t.

p.s. If you want more information on Angkor Wat there is a link at the bottom of this page to it on wikipedia

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Angkor_Wat